Playboy
15th June 2009
The Savile Row Suit
Fred Astaire, Gary Cooper, Frank Sinatra, Laurence Olivier, Noel Coward, Muhammed Ali, Winston Churchill, and even Marlene Dietrich are all fellows of the refined, masculine elegance that is Savile Row. A club of sorts where membership is gained through the experience, purchase and wearing of, arguably, the world’s best suits.
Joining the stars and statesmen through shared custom certainly has its prestige perks but behind the glamour lies a tradition of quality and craftsmanship that reassuringly remains. “The fundamental values that lie beneath what we do – skill, authenticity, durability and strong involvement – place the well-financed mass luxury culture of the last decade in sharp relief,” Anda Rowland, co-chair of Anderson & Sheppard (formerly No.30) accurately explains.
Not something that can be easily replicated, a true bespoke suit will fit perfectly using high quality components, from the cloth through to linings and button choice. “The shoulders and sleeves should be sewn by hand. Patterns within the cloth, such as checks or stripes should match where necessary such as sleeves and pocket flaps,” John Hitchcock head tailor of Anderson & Sheppard details. Lesser quality suits’ seams will mainly be done by machine and not always have functioning button holes (a minimum requirement on Savile Row).
A good suit can make an average man look amazing. It gives shape, form and presence where there might not be otherwise, through a considered combination of exquisite materials (exclusive cloths), custom cut and hand finish. It’s a miracle worker. An unparallel sartorial transformer that is sure to turn all the right heads. But above all it’s the fact that it’s bespoke (derived from it ‘being spoken for’, i.e. completely made for the individual). Anderson & Sheppard, for one, uses an individual paper pattern for every client, cut from a comprehensive set of measurements. “Each garment we make is then cut from that customer’s own pattern,” says Hitchcock. Some tailors’ reputations have been sullied by sending measurements to be manufactured in the far east, so it’s always good to ask if the suit will be made on the premises.
“What makes a Savile Row suit ‘the best’ is very personal to the individual and so it should be, within reason,” says Ray Stowers of Stowers Bespoke (No.13) and formerly head of Bespoke at Gieves and Hawkes (No.1) for 25 years. “As a tailor I will always give the customer the style design and fit they desire whilst advising as to what actually suits their individual size, shape, age, lifestyle and the occasion (It was a tailor on Savile Row who created The Tuxedo.) The right proportions and balance to the individual’s size and shape is critical,” he continues. “The length of the Jacket, sleeves and trousers have to be correct, neither too short or too long, the chest and shoulder width should be in proportion to the customers size with the shoulders not too wide. The jacket should also have some shape in the waist and the trousers not to bag through the leg.” Each house has their own subtle style and signature, which is why it’s good to meet with several tailors before handing over a couple thousand quid. And while that may seem like a lot, a Savile Row suit is a genuinely sound investment. It will be there during and long after designer fashions flash and fade.