New Style Magazine
On Savile Row - worldwide known tailors "golden mile," two years ago Ray Stowers opened Stowers Bespoke. Amongst his clients are Hollywood stars, Arabian sheikhs and connoisseurs of a flawless cut and excellent fabrics. In this interview Ray talks about the secrets of the tailors trade.
>>What makes Stowers Bespoke stand out from other tailors on Savile Row?
We are more than just an atelier - we advise how to compose a whole wardrobe depending on your lifestyle. A lot of the tailors have their established silhouettes based on which they will make suits for you and hundreds of other clients. When you come to Stowers Bespoke, you won't be forced upon, I will make a tuxedo or business suit, fitted or easy-fit, khaki jacket, shorts, or uniform. What I see as important is not a shop style, but a taste, life-style, personal habit and the future plans of my clients. The clothes should show off individuality.
>>Who are your clients?
My clients are businessmen and sheikhs from the Middle East, and the UK, there are more young people. I noticed people have more money there and they prepared to spend on the suit, which will last for 10-15 years. I work with everyone; on occasion I have had to make a suit with special pocket for a gun.
>>Was it for gangsters?
I don't know, but they looked serious. The pocket, lined with velvet, had to be placed under the sleeve, to avoid unnecessary convex in the front, so it does not spoil the silhouette.
>>What is your role in your company?
This is my business, established after many years working for Gieves and Hawkes. My son deals with all financial issues, my partner Brian Jeffrey deals with pattern cutting and fittings, and I am the face and spokesmen of the company, building relationships with the clients. Ideally the client should become a friend, my work is based on trust. It is quite hard to tell a stranger, that he wears a wrong size or doesn't look good in an expensive suit. In order to help the client you need to get to know the person. The exchange of monies and a suit is just the beginning of the relationship: the suit will serve 10 years, it can be altered, it needs to be maintained, to match something new. I want my clients to wear my suit with pride. I began as a pattern cutter, then became a manager. I still can take measurements of new client, but Brain does the cutting.
>>What do you need to become a tailor on Savile Row?
Time, hard work and persistence. It is not possible to learn this trade in a couple of years; you are perfecting all your life. Some people, like my partner Brian, working for 50 year, still learns something new.
>>How did you start out in this profession?
I was good at drawing and sketching in school, so when it came to choosing my profession, I thought it would be good to use those talents. At that time not many people went to University. Thinking practically how to utilize my talents. I came to the conclusion that a career in tailoring would suit me the best, and offers to extend my autonomy, I don't like being told what to do.
>>Was it important to you to open your shop on Savile Row?
Yes, from one point of view, because to many that street is still the Holy Grail of tailoring. Few years ago when I left Gieves and Hawkes, my regular clients from the Middle East, the richest people in the world followed me, though I didn't have my own shop. The truth is, for them it wasn't so important as your personality, service and quality. While waiting for a place on Savile Row, I opened my studio in Liberty department store. I don't like how the atmosphere recently changed on Savile Row: there are only a dozen or so tailors left, like Henry Poole. The rest of them sell ready-to-wear garments made in China or Hong Kong but for the media are still called 'tailors from Savile Row'. I have nothing against Lanvin or Abercrombie and Fitch - but now one will think they are genuine tailors. They are however useful to attract more people to the Row.
>>How long does it take to make a suit?
Around 50 hours, excluding time for consultation. I spend significant time with a client, to understand his needs. The price of the suit is £3500 to £5000 is not determined by my greed, but the amount of time and the level of my tailors. I have to pay them well, otherwise they will not care about the quality and the client will receive a bad product.
>>Daniel Craig and Russell Brand wear your suits. How important are the celebrities to your image?
In principal, information about a good tailor passes from person to person so the clients find you anyhow. But the fact that we can make a classic suit for Craig, and a sparkly blazer for Russell Brand says that we we are talented and flexible and it attracts people and assures we can carry out an extraordinary order.
>>What do you find the hardest, making a suit for a man or woman?
Of course, for a woman. The woman's body is more shaped and there are more design variations. It is hard to make a choice! Besides women often have a distorted perception of themselves. They usually think their waist is four inches smaller than it actually is. Sometimes it is hard to explain to a client, that she is size twelve, if she keeps wearing a size ten.
>>What is the most important aspect in a good suit?
The cut, the way it fits on the figure and the fabric that could cost up to £3,500 - £5,000 per metre. But that kind of suit costs £20,000 and will be good only for the person with servants. It is important to choose the right fabric, It is pointless to use lightweight fabric for a person with a large body shape; the suit will lose shape quickly and tear. I use only fabrics produced in England. Italians make great pasta, but if you look at the fabrics under a microscope, English fabrics are much better. And actually, I sell an English product, it would be strange to buy fabrics somewhere else.