add lib
July 09 / September 09
Don’t Fall for fakes, says Ray Stowers
It’s a misconception that all Savile Row traders produce bespoke suits.
In recent years an influx of companies offering non-Savile Row ‘bespoke’ have been capitalising on the namesake of the Row, offering ready-to-wear or made-to-measure suits outsourced to the Far East. Ray Stowers of 13 Savile Row makes suits for Ray Winstone and Russell Brand and is known for his passion for genuine and non-conformist tailoring. Here are his tips on how to get the genuine article.
Choose your tailor carefully
Genuine tailors will have a house style. This won’t suit everyone. Choose a tailor who suits your personality and lifestyle. They must be willing to work with you – it’s a luxury business and you are the customer.
Meet your ‘cutter’
Genuine Row tailors employ experienced ‘cutters’ to advise you on cloth, cut and style. The cutter should produce your individual pattern and keep it on the premises. Ask your cutter, will you personally cut my pattern or will my measurements be sent away to a factory?
Know your cloth
Ask where your tailor’s cloths originate. Savile Row tailors should be using primarily UK milled cloth, which is still considered the best and supported only by a small amount of speciality cloths from Italy.
Get clued up about construction
A bespoke suit takes a minimum of 50 hours and must be tailored by a Savile Row trained tailor in a traditional manner with a floating hand canvassed chest and front construction, hand sewn linings, edges and button holes. Buttons should be horn and not plastic. The cutter should also conduct a series of fittings.
Be realistic about the price
For a genuine Savile Row bespoke suit, expect to pay at least £2,500. Companies selling ‘Savile Row bespoke’ at a fraction of this price are not being totally honest with the manufacturing process and the quality of the garment. Made-to-measure suits of varying qualities are the usual culprits.